Monday, April 21st, 2003
     At 6:30 am, I staggered out into the morning drizzle to make my way home. As our “language facilitators” double as spies for big brother, I was trying hard to make it back before 8 ish, when I stood a good chance of arriving in San Miguel on the same bus as said facilitator, who would then see that I had spent the night outside of San Miguel, which is a no no. I had a story all prepared, but the “language facilitator” was running late and I rolled into town on the 8 am bus undiscovered

      At around 8:30 am, Jason stopped by to tell me that no one besides himself had bothered to show up for class on time and thus my little transgression was but one of 10,000 stones being rolled smooth on the frothy shoreline. Eventually everyone trickled in, none the wiser.

      No one was in the mood for class and it ended early. Grace and I caught a ranchera to Santo Domingo that had all the Talwaza gringos plus a gringo from La Union hanging out on the roof, where we joined them. In Santo Domingo, I withdrew money from the bank, bought a bag full of snacks and returned home.

      My dinner was an unnerving assortment of pig parts, but I was starving and made the decision to ignore what I was eating and just get it all into my stomach without passing go. EcuaMom told me Micah had come by looking for me, so after I ate, I went by his house to find out if anything was up. We hung out for a while in his room. His EcuaDad poked his head in the doorway and said “Micah?” and then held out a live armadillo he was carrying by the tail. Both Micah and I nearly jumped out of our skin. Barking exclamations, we inched up and poked at the animal and made him squirm. I asked if it was a pet or food. He said it was a pet, but by the time I left that night, the animal had been drowned and Micah’s EcuaDad was sharpening a large kitchen knife.

  Tuesday, April 22nd, 2003
     Last night it got cold enough that I actually needed the blanket on my bed. I had the best nights sleep yet since arriving here and repeatedly stretched out my legs and spread my toes like a cat.

      I made no effort to go to Spanish class until almost 11 because I was doing other things in my room. All class was was us preparing our 2nd tech demos. Because my tech demo involves administering intramuscular injections to piglets, I borrowed a fat baby doll from 10 year old Kristina which roughly resembled a piglet, and a hypodermic needle from her mom. When I walked into my house carrying a naked baby doll and a hypodermic needle, I made it about 5 steps before doubling over with laughter. I had been trying to play it cool, but EcuaMom was sitting in the front room and had company over and they had all dropped a vacant gaze on my naked baby doll at the same time. When I uncrumpled from the floor, everyone wore terrified expressions. I told them what I was up to and they could not suppress their amusement, in spite of their visceral revulsion to it. EcuaMom, who has a very non-Ecuadorian talent for deadpan humour, donned a stoic posture and in a tone of mock reverence said “That’s Doctor Trent”.

      Around 3pm while sitting in my room, I felt like the conjunctivitis I had been exposed to this weekend may have gotten a hold in my friendly, yet enigmatic beads, so I went into Santo Domingo to buy the cure from a pharmacy and begin treating myself before having had any real symptoms.

      Later, while eating dinner, I heard meowing in the kitchen behind me. When I went to check it out, I found 4 cats had snuck inside the house. All 4 ran back out the back door when they saw me, but not without some booty they had scored from the countertop. I winked them my approval by tossing the fatty parts from my dinner out to where they were now sitting, when I was sure EcuaMom wouldn’t catch me.

      I sat back down at the table. A moment later there was once again meowing in the kitchen. This time when the cats saw me, they paused for a long moment before only half heartedly running again out the back door. I’m thinking the cats should quit hanging out with whomever it is that cant keep his mouth shut because he keeps spoiling the raid. I tossed them out a few more meaty scraps.

  Wednesday, April 23rd, 2003
     Animal Production went to a small time fish farm to see a working version of a cyclical fish raising operation. Because it was raining so hard, our fearless leader, Roberto, took us beneath a bridge to lecture about fish production. But while we stood there, the river the bridge stood above rose so much that it threatened to sweep away Roberto’s infernal easel of lecture material as well as a few of us gringos. We relocated to higher ground so Roberto could continue talking way too long about nothing. Then we netted a whole pond full of fish in order to determine their sexes. After this, we swept up the road a bit to a house where we ate a spectacular lunch. Then we had the rest of our day wasted by the Peace Corps agriculture brass who wanted to teach us composting. The Peace Corps nurses then showed up to give each of us longwinded interviews about nothing. I arrived home at 5:30 pm exhausted. This is the kind of stuff the Peace Corps does with your time when you have 5 major projects coming due in the next 5 days. Something is almost certainly not going to get done. If they don’t like it, they can- c’mere…. closer…. they can kiss my big, pointy, luminescent gringo ass.

      So I was sitting at my dining room table eating a plate of EcuaFood, when a cat poked through the doorway up to his shoulders. It took me aback, not least because it didn’t live here. It hasn’t been since the States that it was normal to see cats creeping about the house like they belonged. What’s more, the cat in question very much resembled one of my own. We looked at each other expectantly. Then, like in every episode of Scooby Doo, the heads of his companion kitties stacked up around him in the doorway. I fired them a piece of meat from my plate and then glanced to make sure EcuaMom wasn’t coming. After throwing a few more pieces, I heard EcuaMom’s footsteps so I chased the kitties away myself. When the coast again cleared, I picked the rest of the meat from my plate and tossed it out the back door. Then I tried to work on my tech demo, whose due date is Friday. Ha! The tech demo went nowhere, but I did get caught up on all my back day dreaming.

  Thursday, April 24th, 2003
      Calazacon. The first half of our day was wasted on a talk on HIV. The second half of Animal Production’s day was wasted collecting samples of different grasses, which we will never again be able to tell apart, and writing down what may or may not be the plants names. The bugs bit feverishly and the never ending assortment of indistinguishable grasses infuriated those of us with a ton of work waiting for us elsewhere. When we got back to Calazacon, Roberto wanted to talk about what was scheduled on our upcoming “tech trip” down to the very last detail. As that crap was talk better suited for our long drive to our first stop on the tech trip and was not a very smart use of time when we all had tech demos to work on, I walked out without a word and went home to work on my tech demo for the rest of the night.

[Below: Not only does this caterpillar sting, but becomes, in its adult phase, a flying monkey that does the bidding of maniacal brujas]

  Friday, April 25th, 2003
      I dragged my butt out of bed around 4am to continue working on my inadequately prepared tech demo. Roberto came by the house around 8am to inspect my chicken coop and dole out undeserved criticism (his forte). My tech demo sucked, but they apparently had no desire to flunk anyone because mine made the grade.

      Then, because there was a week long “tech trip” coming up, I went into Santo Domingo to make a largely unsuccessful effort to clear my camera of all pictures to make room for the week’s worth of photos I could be taking. I uploaded them all onto a computer, but the owner of the internet place couldn’t figure out how to work his ridiculously complicated CD burning program. But since I did manage to place 30 or so pictures on the internet, there WAS a little room made on my camera. Meanwhile, lots of Peace Corps Trainees (PCT’s) as well as actual Peace Corps Volunteers (PCV’s) came and went in the internet place. The PCV’s were in town because they were supposed to be helping put together a mandatory “Spa Day” for tomorrow. From the conversations I overheard them having behind me, it sounded like “Spa Day” would be yet another enormous waste of time in a long history of times wasted in training. What’s more, the PCV’s sounded like a bunch of cliquey summer camp counsellors and forced me, against my purest intents, to hate their guts.

      Around 6pm, I left the internet place to walk 100 yards up the road to where a bunch of PCT’s were meeting for Karaoke or something. There was a high turn out, but I have no idea if anything ever got off the ground because I bailed.

  Saturday, April 26th, 2003
      I ditched Spa Day entirely in order to do absolutely anything else and hung out in Santo Domingo- a rather high profile thing to do considering I was AWOL. Back in San Miguel, Jason (Talwaza) and Grace informed me that I had, indeed, missed yet another ridiculous waste of time at Spa Day. From both their descriptions and the descriptions of others, I ascertained that I had not only evaded what would have been a helatiously infuriating parade of total horse waste, but also that I had gotten away with it scott free. Then around 8pm, a lightning storm fried our power out.

  Sunday, April 27th, 2003
      I was having a morning. I couldn’t seem to get a coherent plan in my head as to what I should bring on the tech trip, so I threw everything laying in plain sight into a series of plastic bags and threw it all on the porch. My ride, Roberto in a white jeep Cherokee, was ˝ hour late. After picking up the 3 other gringos on via Puerto Limon, we headed to Quito. Roberto drove like a maniac and sung along to his poorly mixed tape of 80’s pop, causing the jeep to fishtail at one point because the car was overdriving his brain.

      Quito is alright by me. I found M+M’s at the first carryout I walked into. The climate is nice and cool and everything is green. When we stopped for gas, we spotted an area of American fast food restaurants. We exploded out of the 2 vehicles and ran up the street under the pretext of “just taking a look”. We all came back with food.

      To call the mountainous green expanses east of Quito “beautiful” would be inadequate and fairly trite. I’m not going to call them anything, then. I’ll just say it looks like a cross between central Idaho and The Land Before Time. We ate trout at 4000 meters altitude and then splashed around in thermal hot springs that cost us a buck to get into. A few of us decided to give ourselves pneumonia by jumping back and forth between the ice cold air temperature pool and the hot springs. The air was cold and wet and the clouds draped lethargically on every mountain surrounding us. What, you might ask, happens to the human body when boiled like a lobster at 4000 meters altitude and then released back into wet frigid air? You fall over dead, of course. Your heart pounds inside your chest and a ring of little translucent parakeets circle your head. You struggle to appear casual while desperately trying to catch your breath, but alas, you die, unless, like me, you are already dead.

      We arrived after dark at our “hotel” somewhere near or in Chaco, Napo. All were pleasantly surprised, not only by the quality of our hotel, but also that there was not enough room for Roberto and the brass and they had to search elsewhere in town for lodging. I’ve been putting “hotel” in quotations because it was actually more like a small motel. However, motels in Ecuador and probably all of Latin America are places you take prostitutes and rent by the hour.

      After the brass left, we all piled into one room and emptied the contents of 2 Castillo Blanco bottles. Lee and Sarah then went out in search of beer while the rest of us stayed behind. While we awaited their return, Pete and I tried to arc streams of urine off the balcony with enough pressure so as to land them on the roof of the next building over. Lee and Sara met locals and got distracted from their task, so the rest of us got tired waiting for them to came back and went to bed.

WEEK 9       WEEK 11

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