Monday, May 26th, 2003
      Internet in Santa Elena from 9:30am – 2:30pm. I had changed from shorts to pants before leaving the house this morning because the family was harassing me about having been sick yesterday and it being “cold” today. I realized upon leaving the internet place that I had left all but a few bucks in my shorts at home. I had to give the internet guy 4 bucks plus my watch as insurance that I would return to pay the rest. I had a little bit of change in my pocket so I bussed to the mall where I could both withdraw money from the ATM and also eat mall food. The ATM said I could not withdraw money at this time. I tried 2 more times with the same result. I had exactly enough money to get me home from the mall. I walked into Julio’s at 4pm having not eaten all day. I was just in time to leave again for a meeting I was scheduled to attend with the “Frente de Apoyo Feminino (Women’s Support Front)” in El Tambo.

      The president of the group was sick and thus not in attendance. The meeting was attended by 8 women. They told me they basically attach themselves to events and help out with whatever they can. A crack staff of “go getters” they are not, but we had a blast hanging out and laughing at each other. They asked me point blank what I thought of the group and was this my first visit or my last. I told them they were fun and I’d be back.

      Then I bussed back to Santa Elena to pay my debt and reclaim my watch. I came straight back to El Tambo and bought a tank of purified water from Julio’s wife’s (Susanna’s) sister’s tienda. We only had bread for dinner, I’m not sure why.

      I retired to my room to write. As it is customary in this house to interrupt whatever I am working on every 5 minutes to engage me in pointless conversation, the 3 males soon came bursting into my room. Ivan had finally gotten Julio to understand that the rent money he had been refusing, was the peace corps’, not mine. Suddenly Julio wanted to deal. He said if I were paying rent, he could make the house more comfortable for me. I told him I didn’t need more comfort, just a little unbroken concentration. I told him gringo’s have a saying that says one shouldn’t mix work and play. I gave him as an example of mixed work and play, me writing on my bed with neighbor kids running around in my room and Julio sitting on the corner of my bed staring at me trying to start conversations.

      Then we finally got down to talk of money. I pulled out the rent contract that the peace corps makes all of us fill out and turn in. Julio asked if a contract was really necessary. Julio is a good guy. I could not have asked for more loyal assistance with social and other matters and all of that when he believed there was no money in it. I need no further proof that he is an honorable guy. I didn’t need a contract. What I needed was really suave español to make sure we were all on the same page as far as how all this should be handled.

      Julio wanted a copy of the rental contract to be able to shut down his local critics in the event they call into question his charging rent to the gringo, to prove it was all legit. The peace corps will give up to $35 for rent IF that’s the amount we agree on and sign the contract for. $35 bucks, as every local knows, is way too much rent for this room, but if the peace corps will give us that much, we should go for it. Meanwhile, Julio and I are totally on the level with each other. We don’t need no stinkin contracts. I needed to convey to Julio that A.) in reality, this contract means nothing to whatever he and I decide the room should rent for, B.) that if we photocopy the contract, we can put a ridiculously low figure on it to show local critics, and C.) on the Peace Corps’ contract, we can jack up the price to the fullest amount they will pay because we loose free money if we write a lesser amount. All this I had to angle for in Spanish while unsure if Julio was down for such a tactical gank move. He’s very proper after all.

      Slowly, I brought Julio and Ivan around to understanding the nature of my plan and I did it so smoothly that they thought the group had evolved the plan together. Ivan grabbed my dictionary and looked up a word. He extended the dictionary to me and said “this is us tonight”. He was pointing at the word “clever”.

      We then moved on to setting a price for food. 4 adults and a 3 year old then trickled into the room and took seats. They talked loudly amongst themselves as the 3 year old squawked and protested everything. Occasionally they would react to whatever point Julio, Ivan or I had just made. A scorpion skittered out from beneath my bed and Alex ran up and stomped on it. Finally, I rather obliquely said to Julio “remember what I said about not mixing…. uh, the two? It’s a circus.”

      It was amusing in the highest to watch my point dawning on Julio at the same time as the realization that the whole room was listening to whatever his response would be. I saw him conceive of and abandon a variety of responses before saying, “Oh… a circus.” I tipped over on my side and laughed until the room emptied.

  Tuesday, May 27th, 2003
     I worked all day in my room without interruption from anyone. At around 2:00 PM, I went with Julio to a MIDUVI meeting (the government organization that helps people build their homes when they are too poor to do so themselves, kinda like Habitat for Humanity) to see what was going on. Julio was going to the meeting because he is hoping to get a roof for the half of his house that doesn't have one. I told Ivan I like the house better without a roof because it looks like a Greek ruin. Julio's house has been lacking half its roof since it was built 20 years ago.

     After the meeting, Guido and I kicked around some ideas as to what bugs I should try planting in the ears of the town's youth group tomorrow at their meeting, but when Guido left, Ivan told me there isn't any youth group meeting tomorrow and Guido has his facts screwed up as usual. Guido came back later and he Julio, Ivan and I screwed around until late learning English.

  Wednesday, May 28th, 2003
      At 9:00 AM, I left for the internet place in Santa Elena. I worked on emails and this website- both of which I am very behind on. I had to leave around 3:00 PM to call Ivan to verify that there was still no youth meeting and thus no reason for me to come back to El Tambo. Julio answered, told me not to bother coming home for the non-existent youth group meeting and asked when he should expect me. I told him 5:30 PM. In spite of my out of control workload, I gave the family such an early return time because they are simple people living a simple life and it offends them when I miss their meals. They do not understand my leaving town all the time town to use some nebulous feature of computers called "internet" and returning without stories to tell, because for them, leaving town is a big deal. I tried to introduce them to the concept of "eat and run" and told them that Americans don't make a ritual out of every meal they eat when there are other things going on. The family tries to understand this, but it still doesn't sit right with them. They are still simple folk with a scope no bigger than their simple lives. So yes, I'll be home tonight in time for dinner so that while we are feasting ritualistically on a sumptuous meal of 1 egg and a piece of bread, the family can feel that all is right with the universe. In the meantime, however, there is mall food waiting to be had in Libertad.

      I bussed to the mall, ate in the food court, picked up a few things at the Hipermarket and then headed back to El Tambo. In El Tambo, the town was gearing up for its usual end of day soccer matches. We ate our bread and egg dinner (to which I contributed PB+J) and then we all sat around talking. Julio was unusually flighty and kept saying bizarre things out of the blue, such as that his name is July Gregory in English and that people in movie theaters eat popcorn by tossing it into the air and catching it in their mouths. When the conversation at last turned to something banal, I ducked out and attempted to take notes on a pig book. A neighbor kid came into my room and asked me non-stop questions. I was tired and growing irritable, so I kicked him out and put myself to bed before the whole family could pile into my room and keep me awake for another few hours without my getting any work done.

  Thursday, May 29th, 2003
     Took notes from about 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM on the same subject matter of 3 different pig books. The meeting I was supposed to attend at 4:00 PM was postponed. I had a big list of things I needed to do at the internet place. Even though I will be spending the entire day at the internet place tomorrow, I didn't want to take any more pig notes and I have too much to do to just sit around idle. So I went. I came back an hour-and-a-half later with an even bigger list of things to do tomorrow. Does this happen to everyone or is work just naturally attracted to workaholics? After dinner, little kids invaded my room and we decided to throw my frisbee around in the street. When they grew tired of frisbee throwing, they made me juggle matchboxes, which we weighted down with sand. Then they demanded I provide them the English translation for every word they could think of. Then I announced I was going to bed and went to my room. All the kids followed. In my room, I confirmed several more times that I was, in fact, going to bed. They apparently didn't realize that this meant they had to leave. I herded them out of my room and only then did they set a very reluctant course for the front door.

  Friday, May 30th, 2003
     At breakfast, Julio, Ivan and I sat talking a very long time about everything from Las Vegas to gangs to welfare. It is not my intention to portray Americans as filthy rich and obnoxious, but time and again it's what ends up happening. But you really ARE all filthy rich, even if you don't feel like you are and even if there are still things you can't afford. 'Obnoxious' I wont get into, but if you were just thinking that if you were really rich you would have a giant house, several cars and never work again, I would say you are suspect.

      After breakfast, I went to an internet place from 9ish until 1:45 PM. Then I headed for mall food. I was running late, so as soon as I was done eating, I grabbed a bus to El Tambo. I showed up 1/2 hour late (which, in Ecuador, is right on time) for a meeting I was scheduled to attend. Julio and I then finally showed up another half-hour after my return, for a total of 1 hour late. It didn't matter to the EcuaMeeting, they stopped everything and introduced me. Then I puked out a quick speech and was given a chair among the presidents and vice presidents, etc... It was a community bank meeting. All the people present had originally thrown 40 bucks into a pot and began loaning out their collective stash with interest. Now their coffers hold more than 3000 bucks. I could not understand a word that was said- the acoustics were terrible, children were running around playing and screaming, dogs were actually inside the meeting and fighting with each other for mating rights. This went on for 3 hours. I was dying. I had feigned attentiveness for so long I could no longer feel my body. The meeting eventually broke down into bickering. I got up, walked over to Julio who was standing near the door and struck up a conversation. I was working up to "well we could probably just go now", when the group suddenly insisted I settle their argument. Julio, the Vice President and I stepped outside to discuss the debate in peace. Apparently, the majority of the people wanted to receive 100% of their due profits immediately, but not all the money was presently in the bank. The money was still partially loaned out. The bank leaders wanted to convince the investors that it was better to take less than 100% of their dividends right now so as to not disrupt the banks ability to lend. I told them that as far as the group was concerned, it was better not to strap the bank. They insisted I go back inside and explain this to the investors because they were not understanding this. I told them 'no' point blank. Julio reminded me that I was living in El Tambo for the purpose of disseminating ideas. I reminded Julio that my Spanish sucks and that if native speakers couldn't communicate such a point, I surely couldn't. Still Julio insisted. Still I told him no. Even if the audience had no idea what I was saying, they would be so intimidated by my taking the opposing viewpoint that they would back down uninformed. I'm no one's goon; settle it yourselves. After the meeting, I told Julio I didn't need to attend any more bank meetings. He agreed.

      At around 9:30pm, Guido called to tell me I was scheduled to teach English tomorrow at a college. Say what?

  Saturday, May 31st, 2003
     I woke up before 6:00 AM and stayed awake because I was irate that for almost 2 weeks Guido had been telling me I was going to meet the students of the college on this date without ever once mentioning I would be meeting them in order to teach them English. Now he tells me this with zero time to prepare?

      When I got out of bed, I told Julio that Guido's chronic lack of information was a problem. Julio asked if I wanted him to come along to ensure I wasn't swamped in confusion. I told him I would prefer that, but I didn't know if it was necessary. Julio said that if he accompanied me, he could learn whatever English I was teaching. I told him that was a great idea and to bring his butt along to my class.

      At the college (actually it's "adult school" at the local elementary school building). I mentioned to Guido that this English teaching had come as a surprise last night. He hid an embarrassed smile and said that at least I had the pile of English lesson books he had brought. The books were total crap. So too had been the student's previous education in English. I taught English to 3 classes, all of which had 3 or less students- not including Julio. One class had been studying English 5 years and still knows less than I did in my first month of Spanish in college. In spite of all that, teaching was a total blast. The students are used to starchy, talking-head teacher-types pontificating lessons at them. They surely weren't expecting what went down in my English class. Neither was I for that matter. Formality went straight into the toilet. I told them we wouldn't be learning textbook English because that's not how people talk. I told the students, that contrary to what their books say, "bye bye" is not an appropriate way to bid anyone adieu, as you will look stupid and no one actually says bye bye unless they're clowning around or talking to dogs or babies. The students now use bye bye to insult each other.

      To illustrate the "z" sound, not present in Spanish, I drew a bee on the board. To illustrate the "th" sound, as in "this" also not present in Spanish, I drew a bee plus a tongue sticking out of a mouth. Try that. To remind students that "H" is pronounced in English, I drew a panting dog and set it equal to H. To remind them that "J" (and sometimes "G") are not H sounds, I drew the same dog crossed out.

      After class, I went on a mission to find out what's happening to the money the school is saving by not paying me to teach English. If the students are paying the normal rate to go to school and one of their 3 or 4 teachers isn't accepting money, where is the extra going? I don't want the money, but neither should my free work go towards padding someone else's pockets up the line. I want that money to go back to the students. And what about the people who can't afford classes in the first place? They're more the reason I'm here than those that can afford to pay for school and I plan to teach them just the same. What will we have when some have paid for the same instruction that others are getting for free? "You'll have to take that up with Guido", Julio said. Indeed.

      Later on, the neighbor kids and I were playing with my camera when Julio remembered he was supposed to be in a meeting with MIDUVI and took off. I went inside and began writing, but a nagging urge to check my e-mail succeeded in driving me out of the house. I found that the phone lines were out in Santa Elena, so I moved on to Libertad. I checked my mail and then got on the wrong bus with out paying a speck of attention to what I was doing. After a long tour of the rough neighborhoods in the outlying areas of Libertad, the bus returned to point of origin and I got out and took the correct bus home.

      At home, I wrote for the rest of the evening. Julio was bored and drifted in twice to see what I was doing. He asked if I ever get tired of writing. I said nope. Then Julio's family went to sit with Susanna's sister's family in front of their tienda on the "main drag" (their Saturday night ritual). I stayed home and gave myself a haircut.

  Sunday, June 1st, 2003
     I wrote until noon, studied Spanish and took notes on pig books until 6:30 PM. From 4:00-4:30, Julio and I walked over to the main square to check out the "el dia de los ninos" event (kids day). There was a clown and kid dancing, games, balloons and candy. But Julio had to take a batch of bread out of the oven, so we split. The kid activities continued until 7:00 PM or so. I was hoping the latter part of the day would produce some alternative to the writing/learning I had been occupying myself with, but as there was still nothing to do, I went right back to writing until 9:00 PM. Julio told me the family was once again heading up to Susanna's sister's tienda. I went too this time. There wasn't much of the conversation I could get in on, but someone made popcorn, so at least I had something to chomp while I stared off into space. The town president stumbled past us trashed. We saw him later passed out sitting upright on his porch as we headed home. A porch full of girls yelled what were apparently lewd comments at me. I couldn't understand them, but Julio's family understood them, and with great amusement.

WEEK 14       WEEK 16

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