Monday, March 3rd, 2003
     After Breakfast, I rounded up the other gringos and we flagged down a bus heading to the next town over -Talwaza or Tahuasa or something- to pay a surprise visit to the gringos there. When we arrived, they told us they were at their wit's end with their host families and village. Talwaza is much poorer than San Miguel. Sara, a gringa living there, has eaten fried platanos for almost every meal since she arrived. We've occasionally eaten platanos at my house, but by and large, it is animal food.

      The gringos of Talwaza showed us their respective homes, which are little more than glorified wooden clubhouses. Then we San Miguel folk returned home via a pickup truck we flagged down. We had all acquired fairly nasty sunburns, so we swam in the river. The dance floor, or rather, the bare patch of earth beneath the corrugated steel roof, was full. Kids ran everywhere throwing water and flour at people and each other.

      Soon the talwaza gringos showed up in San Miguel. We all went down to the river. They could not believe the "amenities" of San Miguel, scant though they were. After they left, I went home and ate with the scads of visitors staying at my house. The official Carnival river party shut down for the night, so the reveling took to the street. It is mostly dancing kids and men drunk out of their minds. I ducked out of the whole mess and went to bed.

  Tuesday, March 4th, 2003
     No busses are running today because of Carnival. I am so done with Carnival. I dare anyone here to utter a statement NOT containing the word "bailar." It's enough already. These people have been trotting in place for 4 days to music playing way too loud for the size of the speakers. That's fine. DO that if you think it's a good time, but SHUT UP already. I can't pretend to care anymore. I am forced to lie constantly because every 5 seconds, someone is compelled to ask carnival related questions for which only one answer will suffice. "Why yes, I'm walking past your house because I'm headed to the dance." "Why yes, I look so tired because I have been dancing so much." "Well OF COURSE I just scratched my ass because dancing for Carnival is the greatest thing anyone could ever aspire to do." Why don't they just get serious about this crap and drop every word from the Spanish language that isn't "bailar?" Why mince words when you could be saying "Bailar bailar bailar bailar bailar bailar bailar bailar?" So yeah, I've had it. All of us gringos have had it. The gringos from Talwaza came over today and they have really, REALLY had it. We're all beginning to redline. Carnival got us out of "Spanish Class" early -which is a bad thing when your options are: trotting in place to obnoxious music; watching other people trotting in place to obnoxious music; or hiding under your bed.

     Meanwhile, back at the river, right about the time the borrachos began kicking the crap out of each other, the drunken DJ of trotfest attatched himself to me and spoke a language that I am feeble at -not only way too fast- but also drowned out by the excessively amplified horse waste. Telling him to slow down did nothing. He repeatedly shoved beers at me and pulled at my shirt. Finally, I disrespected him publically by shoving the beer back at him and walking off. Because this happened on the heels of a fistfight, it recieved a huge amount of attention from the people standing around. I feel bad about this now, but I owe no one my time, nor am I a prop for anyone elses agenda. And all this without ever having successfully communicated with the guy. Open your eyes, bro. Did anything else happen today? No. Carnival happened. Carnival won't STOP happening, so I am ducking it out in my room.

  Wednesday, March 5th, 2003
      After my "classes" today, I got straight on a bus for Santo Domingo. I stayed until almost dark and then hopped the last bus out of the city that was heading past my house. I knew it was the correct bus because I asked the guy that collects the money- twice. That's kind of the procedure here. God forbid they just post their route info. When the bus finally left, it was totally dark. The lights were on inside the bus so it took quite a while to figure out that I was heading in the wrong direction. I went and politely rebuffed the guy that collects the money for his error. He asked me "Which San Miguel? There are many." Yep. That's just the way minds work down here. But this was partially my fault for not saying "Puerto Limon", which is the correct terminal city. Instead, I stated my personal destination. In any case, I was screwed at this point. The bus stopped near a truck, parked but still running in front of a small tienda. The money collector ran over, conversed and returned. He said the truck would take me back to Santo Domingo. I thanked him and got off the bus.

      Outside, I tried in vain to communicate with the truck driver. He said "one moment" and then just drove away. I stood there and stared at the surprised people inside the tienda. I walked over and bought a coke with a 20 dollar bill, knowing that anyone I paid for a ride would claim not to have change for it. I began explaining my problem to the people in the tienda. The whole town slowly turned up to see what was going on. My Spanish was completely offline and I had the people I was conversing with writing their end of the conversation down on paper, to which I answered aloud. I could tell them neither my address or phone number. Incredibly, the last thing I had done in Santo Domingo was to open an e-mail saying a phone account had been opened for me by my friend, Jeanne Brownfield, along with the information I would need to access it. I had memorized the information on the spot and so I had it at the tienda to call the US to retrieve the phone number of my house in San Miguel that I had previously given to the people back home. Then I called San Miguel. Finally arrangements for my return were made (a banana truck was on its way) and the whole town breathed a sigh of relief. The change in attitute in the townsfolk was palpable. They looked as though they had just seen the conclusion of a good movie. One female in the tienda wrote down the tienda's phone number and told me to call once I had gotten home safely. She then told me to ask for "Diana", as she pointed to a now blushing girl nearby. They then took me inside the tienda to eat tuna and rice and try to convert me to a Jehova's Witness. Everytime they tried to close the deal by producing a picture of heaven and asking me if I wanted to go there, I played dumb. I cursed the banana truck that was so slow in coming for me and kept my mouth too stuffed with food to provide swift responses.

      At last, the banana truck took me some distance to a taxi, which then took me to San Miguel. The cab driver- a math professor by day- initiated the all too familiar dirge of no good work in Ecuador and the strict visa policies of the US. I was greatly amused by my bizarre evening and entered my house amid much levity and colorful storytelling. EcuaMom was in stitches. I looked for the tienda number to let them know I had arrived safely, but the number had gotten lost somewhere. I told EcuaMom "Too bad, 'Diana' was cute." This wasn't exactly true, but elicited the correct response, which was more laughter.

  Thursday, March 6th, 2003
      Technical training all day in Calazacon. On our 2 hour 15 minute lunch break, I went home. EcuaDad, as usual, said nothing to me. He spends each day as stonefaced and taciturn as a mural. I don't even know his name.

      I wrote while swinging in a hammock for a half-hour until EcuaMom arrived home. At that moment, EcuaDad came flying out the front door laughing and yelling “She called! She called! Diana from the store called! I got her number for you! Now you can call her!” EcuaMom joined the euphoria and shouted “Remember you said she was cute!? Now you can call!” They were out of control. They ran for the number and made me copy it on the spot. This opened a can of worms I have regretted ever since.

      While I ate my lunch, I caught bits and pieces of their rapid and garbled conversation and found they could not stop talking about “la muchacha” that had called. This incident revolutionized the nature of my relationship with them, as EcuaDad fancies me a skirt chaser and EcuaMom feels at liberty to try to hook me up with any female that strikes up a conversation with me. Ecuadad is now frequently animated with me. EcuaMom is very nearly a pimp.

      I returned to Calazacon for classes and after a few hours returned to San Miguel accompanied by 3 Talwaza gringos and 3 San Miguel gringos. The Talwaza gringos are once again at their wit's end with their town and their respective EcuaFamilies. Today, the 4th Talwaza gringo, Zack, became the 2nd person to leave the Peace Corps. The remaining 3 have come to drink rum and coke on my front porch. Talwaza gringo David had his guitar with him, which he plays well. EcuaDad, my new best friend, scurried about rounding up chairs for the lot of us. We porch gringos caused such a favorable environment to the locals that the crowd we attracted nearly became a spontaneous street party.

  Friday, March 7th, 2003
      I was in our gravity-powered rainwater shower, fully sudsed up and probably just getting to the good part of the song "Easy Street" from Annie, when the water stopped coming out of the shower head. EcuaDad had bungled something on the water tank outside and caused all the water to spill out all over the backyard. I dipped a plastic cup into my gravity-powered rainwater toilet and splashed cups of water at my suds, but in my haste, accidentally bumped the plunger and flushed away even that water. I wiped off the remaining suds with a towel.

      All the Animal Production people came to San Miguel today to attempt the digging of a 10 meter by 10 meter pond. We hit a few natural springs right off the bat and ended up expending ridiculous amounts of energy mired down in knee deep mud while absolutely murdered by the sun all day long. The tarantulas skittered, the flying gnats bit, the mud walls sought the same level as the mud we were slowly removing from the center and the day was not only hell, but a complete waste as well because we ended up jettisoning the project after tearing up the property tremendously. It will now breed mosquitoes and maybe even cause a wayward cow's death. Nice work Peace Corps.

      When I shuffled home, covered head to toe in mud, I learned there was still no water, so I went native and washed my boots, my socks, and myself in the river like most everyone else in town. The river is said to be contaminated by a hog farm upstream, but we have been in it before with our multitudinous open insect wounds without any trouble.

      At night, an assortment of EcuaFamily relatives came over and we loaded a truck with plastic jugs, which we drove to the family farm near Talwaza to fill with water. We then resupplied the house in San Miguel. A relative later showed me how to bake a cheese-filled pastry for a project due in Spanish "class" in the morning.

  Saturday, March 8th, 2003
      A few days earlier, I grilled for my own amusement 8 year old Jaime about the various livestocks he has had a hand in putting down. He now keeps me abreast of any large mammals in the area slated for the chopping block. A cow he had told me about yesterday was being hatcheted to pieces at the “psychiatrist stand” when I awoke this morning.

      Spanish “class” lasted a whole 51 minutes today. Then I and the Spanish “teacher” went into Santo Domingo to investigate the prices of young animals, feed and vaccines. I did not ask her to do this. She had apparently been mandated to do this, as were the other “language facilitators”. On the bus ride into town, we ran into Sara from Talwaza who is also in Animal Production, but whose “language facilitator” had told her nothing of this pricing assignment in Santo Domingo. I and the “teacher” annexed her into our endeavor. She had been with the other 2 Talwaza gringo refugees but they soon went their own way after we arrived in Santo Domingo. Around noon, the “language facilitator” left us and Sara and I wandered around Santo Domingo shopping, internetting and encountering all the other Peace Corps gringos doing the same thing.

      A plan had been hatched at some point by one of us to congregate at 6:30 pm at a pizza place called “Ch' Farino's” in the nicer end of Santo Domingo. This proved to be too tedious a plan for the crack staff of Peace Corps Trainees to handle. When Micah, Grace, Sara, Jason and I showed up at 6:10 pm, we found 20 PCTs already finished with their food and squawking at a cluster of tables like a field of crows. As we ordered and ate, various waves of PCTs left and were replaced by late comers. Soon enough, an entirely new set of 20 or so PCTs sat squawking and driving the waiter mad. When we had had our fill, we began an assault on local beer supplies at a place owned by a friendly if flamboyant Palestinian man. A few hours later, we commandeered 3 cabs the hell out of Dodge.

  Sunday, March 9th, 2003
      Went to Santo Domingo first thing today to upload pictures to the internet. I arrived before many internet places were yet open but found a place on a side street and spent the next, oh, 7.5 hours there. Then I stumbled back out to the street with swirls where my eyes used to be and nearly swam in the direction of the public bathroom. Somewhere deep within the bowels of the marketplace, I got disoriented and ended up back where I had started 20 minutes earlier. I was so baffled how that had happened, as it is almost a straight shot the whole way, that I seriously doubted I had ever had any idea how to get where I was going in the first place. At last, I overcame doubts, narrowed my eyes and plunged back into the marketplace, this time not only successfully finding the public restroom, but also successfully resisting the temptation to urinate on a huge cockroach who was otherwise minding his own business.

      On the bus, I was treated to Backstreet Boys videos at top volume and had to yell my end of a perfectly inane conversation I had with a fellow gringo. When I got home, as seems to be the case every Sunday, my EcuaFamily had a few of their kids and grandkids over. I performed the minimal amount of handshaking etc. that I could get away with and retreated to my room.

WEEK 2       WEEK 4

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