| Tuesday, March 11th, 2003 | ||
| Once again, everyone converged upon the "college" at Calazacon. Animal
Production learned all about guinea pigs and rabbits and how to best
cultivate them en masse. Strangely enough, it was very interesting. 6
or more hours after it began, we finished the yapping and began building
wooden rabbit cages.
My lack of sleep last night was beginning to take its toll. My tolerance for inefficient group activities had all but vanished. I peeked at the plans for cage construction and found them very basic and thus completely uninteresting. The PCTs then converged on the piles of wood and complicated the simple activity so horrendously that I could not even fake a slight interest. I sat on the sidelines while the building fervor commenced. Finally, seeing that the simple boxes were going to take forever to be assembled, I tired of my seat and drifted restlessly among 3 different projects. A scowl entrenched upon my countenance and remained until nightfall. I hated everything. At night, I threw together my “feasibility study” for my chicken project and retreated to my room in hopes of avoiding everyone for the rest of the night. |
| Thursday, March 13th, 2003 | ||
| The rains returned today after a brief, untimely absence. Now my
clothes can be washed because our water tanks will be filled again. Presently, I am
1 borrowed shirt beyond completely out of clean clothes. Tomorrow, I will
be 1 wet shirt into a brand new rotation.
Calazacon. 2 very interesting speakers today. A woman with a booger hanging out of her nose talked about the various pros and cons of getting involved with Ecuadorians. The other woman was supposed to speak on the social, political and economic history of Ecuador, but got on a roll and spouted several commentaries about corporate responsibility, US foreign policy and international lending institutions that I'm sure the Peace Corps would have liked her to have watered down. The Peace Corps tries to dodge topics of a politically volatile nature. Anyway, this speaker was great and no doubt has much more to say. She's lived in Ecuador 20 years. I got her email address and will pay her a visit if my future site is anywhere near her coffee plantation. After Calazacon, Talwaza Jason talked Grace and I out of a trip into Santo Domingo in favor of beers and hammocks on my front porch. At night, a giant cockroach scaled the wall next to me as I sat in the living room. EcuaMom ordered me to murder it. It eluded me at first, but I waited for it to emerge again from furniture and clubbed it with a note book which mangled the creature terribly. Then I knocked it out the front door with a slap. A few minutes later, It had re-entered the house and had made it halfway to the kitchen dragging its guts behind it trying to pretend nothing had ever happened. I admired it, as I have admired cockroaches on many other occasions. Then I smacked the hell out of it again and flipped it back outside. EcuaMom lifted her head wearily from her hammock and said “I salute you” | ||
| Sunday, March 16th, 2003 | ||
| At breakfast, EcuMom told me my bamboo had never been delivered and
maybe
tonight it would be. I was irritated because I had been perfectly
willing to
cart my bamboo home by bus, but she had dissuaded me. I assumed she had
it
under control and now I had nothing to build with. I then retired to my
bedroom once again to play with my new radio, but once again, EcuaDad,
who had somehow managed to survive the night, interrupted me to tell me a
"compañero" had arrived. It was Micah, who had also somehow managed to
survive the night and who was looking extremely rough, if not somewhat
confused. He seemed rather surprised to be alive, himself. We headed over to Grace's house and
interrupted her breakfast. Later, Grace repaid the favor by stopping by to interrupt my studying.
She was bored and wanted to go to Puerto Limon. I had already gotten a lot of studying
done and so was easily persuaded to bail.
We bussed to Talwaza first to pick up Jason. On the bus ride to Talwaza, the money collector who roams the bus collecting the fares attempted to short us our 20 cents change. I was feeling, as they say here, “bravo”, or what you or I might call “in bad need of anger management” and so, after first politely requesting my due change, I followed him back to mid bus and made it clear to him and everyone near that pocketing my 20 cents was about to become the worst mistake he had ever made. Why go to all that bother for 20 cents? Because he thought I wouldn't . And because I'm a human being and not some chump that deserves to get rolled by every 2-bit Ecuadorian maggot with the nerve to run a hustle. I reclaimed the 20 cents. In Talwaza, Jason's EcuaFamily proved themselves to be the nicest people on Earth. They got us to consent to eating “a tiny bit” of food and then brought us a full blown meal that would not be an easy thing for them to afford. It is common to pay people for meals here, but they would accept nothing. Then the 3 gringos bussed to Puerto Limon. Nothing at all happened there. Nothing. So we bussed back and each returned to their respective houses in their respective towns. The people who had been drinking on my porch when I had originally left for Talwaza (my EcuaBrother and EcuaBrother-in-law) were still there drinking. They had been joined by yet another EcuaBrother, who we'll call "EcuaBro2." I sat with them on the porch for a while because they esteem me highly and are always amused by my company. It wasn't long before they all rose and shook my hand. They were leaving and I was raring to get back to my studying. EcuaBrother-in-law, who was very drunk, said that I should come with them. I asked “where and for how long” and his answer was “downtown and for a half hour”. As I needed something from downtown (Santo Domingo) anyway, I consented to go. EcuaBro2 had not been drinking, so he drove. I noticed on the way downtown that EcuaBro2 was very well-put-together. He was mild-mannered but looked like a conquistador. He seemed very aware of his image and was not at all like the average Ecuadorian. EcuaBro2 asked which part of the city I was headed to, which surprised me because I was only riding along because EcuaBrother-in-law had invited me. EcuaBro2 had apparently never been informed as to what I was doing. EcuaBrother-in-law answered for me, but I could not understand whatever he said. We were not yet very near to downtown when drunken EcuaBrother-in-law motioned several times that I should keep my mouth shut. I nodded my assent, but had no idea what the borracho was talking about. He said “women”, coincidentally as we were passing a few women on the road, so I continued suspecting nothing. When we made a U-turn down an alley and I read a sign that said “Minors Prohibited,” it suddenly dawned on me that they were headed to a whorehouse. I nearly hit the ceiling. Brothels are a fairly common component of life in Ecuador. You will note that EcuaBro2 was driving his sister's husband to the whorehouse. Yeah, it's that common. Wives often aren't even terribly upset that their husbands go to whorehouses. I snatched the money out of my regular pocket, hid it in a velcroed pocket, and began thinking of how to get myself out of there without adding to the problem by expressing outrage or insulting my compañeros' choice of pastimes. We pulled through a gate into a lot where there were about 150 men loitering. Surrounding that lot was a horseshoe-shaped building. All along the horseshoe shaped building there were doors. Some doors were closed; other doors were open with an obscenely dressed girl standing in each doorway. The 3 of us got out of the car and headed to an area of picnic tables where drinks were being served. Music was blasting so loud it made verbal communication almost completely impossible. Drunken EcuaBrother-in-law drank still more beers and introduced us to other guys milling around that may or may not have actually been his friends. EcuaBro2 seemed euphoric and smiled continuously. After socializing to his satisfaction, EcuaBrother-in-law motioned for us all to get up. He was now running the show. None of us attempted to speak, as it was impossible to hear, and thus communication was hampered ridiculously. He seized hold of me in what was intended to be a gesture of sublime camaraderie and began us strolling around the courtyard. He pulled me up to prostitute after prostitute, sometimes having me shake their hands, sometimes trying gently to push me into their rooms. I resisted, repeatedly saying, “uh… no, that's ok.” My limited Spanish and the noise level rendered diplomacy fairly ineffective. I was hoping they would just tire of my “pickiness” and just go about their own business so I didn't have to say, “I said 'NO' damnit! Are you two depraved losers out of your minds? Get me out of here.” But no, my EcuaSiblings were determined to be gracious hosts. EcuaBrother-in-law made a few crude gestures which he must have thought would clear up some confusion and thus pacify my reluctance. It didn't, but EcuaBrother-in-law's patience was not to be undone. We visited every prostitute in the place before EcuaBro2 finally realized I wasn't just picky, I was opposed to the entire activity. His stupid smile changed suddenly to what I am assuming was humiliation. He moved briskly towards his car and demanded we leave. EcuaBrother-in-law did not want to leave and so wandered off into the picnic table area after briefly bickering with EcuaBro2. I stood with EcuaBro2 by the car feeling terrible that I had not only ruined their plans, but had completely mortified one of the few respectable people in Ecuador. Furthermore, I had started the two quarreling with each other. And these were not strangers; these were guys I would have to see again and again throughout the next 2 months. It was time for damage control. I attempted to make nonchalant conversation with EcuaBro2, but he did not want to talk to me. I tried to tell him he should stay and I could grab the bus. I don't know if he couldn't understand me or was just opting for unresponsiveness. EcuaBrother-in-law would not come back to the car, so we acted as though we were about to drive off to get his attention. Incensed, he climbed into the back seat. We took him first to his house and then tried to drop him off back at the brothel on our way to San Miguel. EcuaBrother-in-law was much aggrieved by everything that had happened and told the now furious EcuaBro2 to just forget it and take the gringo back to San Miguel. On the ride home, I began concocting the story I would tell EcuaMom if I was asked where we had gone. By the time we arrived at my house, EcuaBrother-in-law had passed out in the back seat and EcuaBro2 had handed me his beer plus a glass from the whorehouse to dispose of. EcuaMom was sitting on the front porch. When I stepped out of the car holding a beer and a glass, my concocted alibi fell to pieces. As the car pulled away, EcuaMom asked me where I had gotten the beer. I told her it was a store near EcuaBrother-in-law's house. This seemed to confuse her. She then asked, “Were there lots of women at this store?” Busted. I tried to look equally confused and said “nope.” It appeared she knew everything, but I was taking no chances. Grace soon showed up and I told her the whole story while swimming in the river. She didn't have nearly a good enough reaction. |