Monday,  March 29, 2004
      I went into to Santa Elena to both send and receive snail mail, check email, pick up a few pounds of balanciado to tie my pig over till the weekend and buy a few groceries. The plan was hobbled when the brand new ATM in Santa Elena told me I did not have any money in my account. By my calculations I should have been paid by now. I had 2 dollars in my pocket and so did about $1.50 worth of internet, which is very little when Hotmail is acting up, and then headed back to Tambo. When I arrived at home, I tallied my money and found that I had just enough change for 2 round trips into Santa Elena. I would need exactly that to check my bank account once a day for the remaining 2 days of this month. Had they not recently built a Banco de Pichincha (my bank) in Santa Elena, I would only have enough change for 1.5 round trips to the bank in Libertad, which could be problematic if I was not paid by the time I checked my account on the last day of the month. I might have to panhandle my way home.

      Then I really didn’t do anything for the rest of the day. Wrote and read, naturally. Watered my plants. Napped. Sweated. Looked out my window. Turned on the coffeemaker. Looked out my window again. Sweated some more. Waved off flies. Sweated, and then got up and looked out my window.

  Tuesday,  March 30, 2004
      Wrote all morning. After lunch I went to the ATM in Santa Elena to try pulling out money again. This time it was all there. My pockets tingled with all the potential diversion I slipped into them, bill by glorious bill. Then I went to internet and uploaded more than 30 megs worth of pictures to this site, plus 10 weeks worth of writing. I ran into the PCV in Santa Elena, Calla Brown, just as I was leaving internet. Calla and I have inexplicably never had anything but the most awkward encounters- and after hours of my vegging out at a computer screen, this time was no different. Back at home, I got sucked into digging up pictures and playing with the html for the Cast o Characters page until about 11pm.

  Wednesday,  March 31, 2004
      Wrote a letter immediately upon waking up and then got sucked back into playing with html. After lunch, I went into Santa Elena to drop off a load of laundry and upload 2 more weeks of writing to this site. Then I went to Lorena’s work. She had called me earlier all bummed out, so I took her out some Amor Wafers and a 3 liter of cola- her 2 favorite things in the world in spite of her laughter when accused of this.

      Lorena told me upon my arrival that her mom is sick and that she has to go back to Tambo after her bosses get home. I told her to stop over to my house when she finds out what her mom has and maybe I’ve got something in my medical kit that would help it. The hellspawn she nannies were behaving like a bunch of animals, but the retarded girl’s antics were so funny that we all nearly peed our pants laughing. Something of a dance party befitting the cantina scene in Star Wars broke out and everything became so wild, ugly and bizarre so quickly that we all laughed uncontrollably for about 20 straight minutes.

      I returned to Tambo. Sometime after 8pm Lorena and her sister showed up at Julio’s house and stayed until after 10pm.

  Thursday,  April 1, 2004
      Wrote from the time I got up until about 10am. Left for Santa Elena around 11:30am to mail something at post office, pick up my laundry, and check my email. I returned home to eat lunch around 1pm. I played with some cacti Adam and I had snagged in Santa Elena, and having discovered they are beginning to put out roots, spent the afternoon carefully chopping a hole for them in the ground around a buried power line. Ivan paid the phone bill earlier today, so the ability to make outgoing calls has been restored. I placed a short phone call to Ela, who has been stuck in Baeza without the ability to make outgoing calls as well. Then I slumped down in a chair and read magazines and hated Ecuador until around 8:30pm.

      Julio and I were supposed to go around to all the worthless Femininos to tell them that we want all money and tickets to be turned in 1 week, prior to the raffle. But I was tired and Julio spent so much time screwing around loafing with the family on the porch, that when he went to take his nightly shower at around 9pm, which he usually takes earlier but always takes before we go around to people’s houses, I just went to bed.. I don’t know why he insists on doing any going around to the neighbors super early in the morning, or super late at night. We are on exact opposite schedules concerning this and I am tired of making concessions for everyone else. So what if he prefers going to visit people late. I prefer going earlier. And if he cant be told this because no one ever addresses anything directly in this society and telling him would just cause the family’s nightly loafing ritual to be thrown out of whack and they would feel like the whole world were coming to an end, then they can just scratch their heads at why I’ve gone to bed and continue regarding me from the fishbowls of their lives as a strange foreigner.

  Friday,  April 2, 2004
      Woke up and wrote a letter in the morning. Around 2pm, went to the mall to see if anything good was playing. As usual, there is not. I went to internet more as a reason to stay out of Tambo than that I expected anyone had written. After dinner, Julio and I went around to tell the Femininos that we want all money and tickets by the 10th of April (the raffle takes place on the 14th). When asked, every Feminino had the same answer- that they did not know how many tickets they had sold. They are hedging. I’m betting most have sold nothing. I don’t even care at this point. I fully expect the worst. While we were out, Julio and I put out word that we were killing a pig tomorrow and that anyone wanting to buy meat should come by in the morning.

  Saturday,  April 3, 2004
      Pig activities started around 6am. Julio tied the pig up and his sons placed it on a table. Julio felt around for the pig’s heart, but said he couldn’t find it. He slid the knife in the pig and probed around inside it for a long time with the knife tip, unsure if he was hitting what needed to be hit to cause a quick death. His sons finally became ancy and demanded Julio pull the knife out so the animal could start dying. I caught the spilling blood in a pan using the hand I was not photographing the event with. The blood did not look normal. It was too thick- almost gelatinous. When I tipped the pan, the blood slid to one side retaining the shape of the pan, like jello. The pig bled fairly profusely, as if the heart or major arteries had been severed, but it refused to lose consciousness. It fought for a very long time. Its knife wound began spraying me with hot blood spatters when the animal exhaled, due to the blood getting into its airways. I leaned far to one side, but still somehow managed to get hit. When it finally died, I stood and watched it butchered out of obligation, since it was my pig, even though I knew I would not be offered a role in the work.

      I began sliding into foul spirits, as that is about all I have felt here for the past 3 weeks. Something in me has run dry. The work has always been far too scant here, but I used to at least believe that one of my untested ideas would eventually hit pay dirt and someone somewhere would wind up working. I no longer feel that way. It used to be that even though the music and culture here would be among the last on this planet I would ever adopt, I could still interact with the world at large as though it weren’t an issue. I no longer feel that way either. I find that I automatically don’t like almost everyone I encounter now. I want to ask people on the street ‘what the hell they are staring at’. I want those smirking teens to pop off at the mouth so I can smash one of them in their face. The annoyance filter I used to have seems to have stopped working. Its no longer fun to be here. It’s not even interesting. If I don’t abandon the old frameworks within which my brain has been working heretofore, I can say without a doubt that I wont make it here much longer.

      I transplanted 6 pepper plants which it was arguably necessary to do, if for no other reason than to distance myself from the family and Euadorian civilization. I have fluctuated back and forth wildly about the garden, both sick of playing kindergarden teacher with this project and its “helpers” but then at times determined to rebuild it in spite of them if for no other reason than to give me something to do. I stayed in an angry gloom until about 2pm, when I began my usual dilemma of wanting to get the hell out of Tambo but unable to come up with any even vaguely valid activities or destinations. This gradually changed into my usual pissing away time in my room and finally writing. Around 7pm, Lorena walked into my room and stood behind me without saying a word. As it is common for bored people to stand behind me and watch me typing in English, I ignored her for a long time thinking she was someone from the house. Then we hung out until 8:30 pm, when Lorena’s mom sent for her, needing a penicillin shot in the ass.

  Sunday,  April 4, 2004
      Woke up early and started writing. Around 9:30am I called Ela briefly. Around 10:30am, I walked over to Lorena’s house a block over. Julio came there to get me for lunch at around 11:30am. I planted a few cacti by Julio’s fence that had finally sprouted roots in pots of sawdust- an act which for me never simply involves stuffing them in the ground. After about 2 hours of committing the cacti to where Julio’s family and passing neighbors will spend the next decade or more looking at them, I returned to Lorena’s house. Lorena was sitting alone at a table in the far back corner of the house eating soup. I sat in the cushionless furniture surrounding the television. For some reason, the sight of Lorena eating soup with no expression, looking up periodically just because I was turned around in my chair looking at her, struck me as hysterical.

      Nothing productive, or indeed of much interest, took place in front of the television where we sat for the rest of the afternoon and evening. Lorena told me her boss had taken her retarded daughter to a “Naturalist Doctor” to get something to rectify her ADHD. She has never been diagnosed with ADHD, but that is clearly what she has. The “doctor” had given her 3 different types of pills containing parts of animals or something. Lorena wasn’t exactly sure. She was fairly certain snake venom was part of it, though. I told her that was idiotic and would not work. Then she told me the boss had taken the retarded girl to yet another doctor, but a “real” doctor. This doctor gave them 3 pills as well, which he said would make the daughter mad as hell for 3 days. She would pound the walls and act insane and would need to be locked up for 3 days in an empty room but would emerge from the room without ADHD. I told Lorena that was pura mierda and that that idiot doctor wasn’t practicing medicine, but rather…. witchcraft. I had used the word ‘witchcraft’ when after a long pause no other word came to mind. For whatever reason, the delivery of that statement cracked us both up. I wrote the word “Ritalin” down on a piece of paper and told her to tell the boss to find these pills and throw those other ones in the trash. I told Lorena that Ritalin could chill those other 2 hellions she nannies out too. She was very interested in that. I don’t really approve of putting kids on Ritalin, but I hate the kids Lorena nannies and would rather have them taken down a few notches than raised drug free.

      Lorena and I went out to buy stuff for dinner at the tienda next to Rodolfo’s house. A group of men were drinking on Rodolfo’s porch and Rodolfo himself stood swaying at the edge of his porch with messy hair and drooping eyelids, beckoning me with ambiguous gestures to come drink with them. He was given pause when he noticed Lorena standing there with me. Walking past his porch on the return trip to Lorena’s, I gave Rodolfo the culturally acceptable response that ‘I would be back later to drink’, though I had no intentions to do anything of the sort. After a meal of crackers and goat cheese with coffee and a really stupid concert on TV that Lorena watched enthusiastically, I left for Julio’s house through the back door of Lorena’s house to avoid Rodolfo.

WEEK  58      WEEK  60

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