Monday, March 24th, 2003
      Our new Spanish teacher stopped by my house today before 8:00 AM and told me to come to class. She's an odd one. She seems like an aging beauty with a codeine problem, who, when taken by mirth, reverts to age 15 and cackles with nervous self-consciousness. She's a great teacher though. She cut the duration of our class in half, and then used the half she retained to round up our brains like a vaquero and drive them unflinchingly into the Rancho Espanol, where with shamanic prescience, she worked linguistic miracles and revealed to us all the secrets of the universe. Then we broke for lunch and threw Spanish to the dogs.

      Grace came over for lunch. I always tell everyone how well I eat at my house, but when they take me up on a visit and we tell EcuaMom to plan for a guest, she tries to get all fancy and the food turns disgusting to a degree commensurate with how much she wants to impress the guest. Today's meal featured a thick, latex rubber cow part atop a pile of rice and green beans. I smuggled my latex rubber cow part out of the house and grace ripped hers apart and placed half on my plate so it looked like we had each eaten to our fill. We wanted to go to Santo Domingo, but there is some kind of bus strike going on and it didn't seem like a good idea.

      The Animal Production brass stopped by to get my top 3 picks for my future site. I had picked 3 places high in the Andes in indigenous communities. They looked at my choices and laughed. Apparently everyone else was choosing those exact same places. They asked me a few questions and tried to get me interested in the places no one else wanted. One place they billed as being very near “the nicest beach in Ecuador and arguably the nicest beach in South America.” I told them I was not a beach person. I wanted to get out of the constant heat and see mountains and do a bunch of exotic indigenous stuff. I sent them packing with that. They went up to Talwaza to talk to Sara with the intention of picking up our Spanish teacher on the way back through San Miguel because no busses were running due to the strike. During that interim, I rethought my position. Why vie with everyone for a few limited places, only to risk getting placed randomly elsewhere, when I could simply choose the beach site and know for certain that failing everything else, I could play in the waves and at least control where I end up spending the next 2 years?

      When the Animal Production brass returned, I told them they could stick me on the beach. They seemed to be uncharacteristically giddy at the news. They said my site would be the envy of all and that the Indians in the mountains stank anyway because it is always too cold to bathe in the Andes.

  Tuesday, March 25th, 2003
     Calazacon. Animal Production learned about Cordonices (a small egg-laying partridge) and making worm beds. Then they finally cut the crap and told us where our new homes would be for the next 2 years.

Micah is going south almost to Peru,
Jason (San Miguel) is going to the Galapagos,
Grace is headed a few hours south of Quito in volcano land
and I am off to El Tambo near the coast.

      If you look due west of Guayaquil, you will see a peninsula jutting out into the ocean. El Tambo is on the middle of that peninsula. It's a few minutes away from a number of different beaches and tourist areas, but el Tambo itself is a weed patch. When I told EquaMom where my site was, her eyes almost blew out of her skull. She told me one of her kids vacationed there once and thought it was heaven. My Spanish was having a fluent episode so I told her where everyone else is bound for and we discussed their predicaments from every angle. Then she began fishing for evidence that she was the best host in town. Pleased with my answers, she ran off to make me spaghetti, as she had heard me last night praising the spaghetti Grace and Micah had made. Now she fancies it to be some kind of gringo treat, which wouldn't be a bad thing if her concept of “spaghetti” wasn't limited to plain noodles.

      Grace and Micah dropped by to reheat their spaghetti from yesterday in EcuaMom's microwave. Grace and I bought a 1 liter of coke and continuously refilled and emptied our glasses with blank but vaguely feral expressions on our faces.

  Wednesday, March 26th, 2003
     Our “language facilitator” gave me a bottle of Gatorade for a belated birthday gift and then made the class sing happy birthday in both languages. She's a strange bird, that one. She can be quite irritating.

     Some Peace Corps brass stopped by our class today and tried to tell us they just wanted to come by to see how we were doing. Of course they never actually asked how we were doing and then I saw them whisking a large scale into their car that they were borrowing from Micah's family. I left class abruptly at 2:00 PM when my patience with the “facilitator” ran out.

      Grace soon showed up at my house and we worked on drawing pictures for our tech demos that were coming due Friday. Drawing pictures was oddly therapeutic. Then Jason from Talwaza dropped by and we all went swimming in the river. I spent the rest of the night working on my tech demo.

  Thursday, March 27th, 2003
      Calazacon from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM. We were taught how to start community banks and also how to mix pig feed in such a way as to optimize nutrients. Grace, Jason and I caught a bus at lunch time to a distant Chinese restaurant. It tasted nothing like Chinese food, but it was interesting that they actually had a Shinto shrine on the wall. Either some Ecuadorian entrepreneur really went the extra mile to authenticate his "Chinese" restaurant, or some Chinese guy is making food in Ecuador without any clue as to how it should taste.

     After Calazacon, the Talwazas and the San Migs caught a lift up to our neck of the woods in the back of a pickup that blasted down the 2 lane highway at 70 mph. I gave Sara my leftover bamboo while Jason checked on Grace, who was sick. A bus then showed up sending all the Talwazas scurrying to catch it. I worked on my tech demo then for the rest of the night, in spite of my room becoming Grand Central for bored gringos. Micah was too sick to go home for a while and laid on my bed a few hours while I drew on the floor. It seems all the gringos are sick now. I however, am right as the rain.

  Friday, March 28th, 2003
     My brain began looping a short film about the various ways a tech demo could end in disaster at around 4:30 AM. At around 5:00 AM, a large, unseen insect that I had been listening to chewing paper or something atop my mosquito net lost its footing and tumbled down the wall towards my head, sending me airborne out of bed. I flipped on the light and sent yet another insect -a massive moth with about an 8 inch wingspan- flying haphazardly out of hiding across the room. I had heard him clambering into my room during the night but had assumed he left. Lately, my room at night has featured much horrific buzzing and clacking of giant insects coming in to check things out.

      I hit the floor as the moth made clumsy sweeps across my room. I grabbed a pair of underwear from the laundry and repeatedly threw it at him as hard as I could. He failed to get significantly tangled up in the tumbling wad of boxer shorts, as my simpleton's mind had envisioned, but I finally cornered him in the bathroom and did him in with a flip flop. He later became a big protein snack for my baby chicks.

      I practiced my tech demo to an imaginary audience until 7:00 AM. All the tech demo judges showed up at 8:00 AM. Micah went first, demonstrating how to plant trees. Then Grace enlightened us on the benefits of beginning your seedlings in a box, as opposed to planting seeds directly in the ground. Then I spoke about why chickens are better off in coops. Then Jason gave the elementary school across the street a talk on why it is not ok to throw trash all over your town. He then set the school kids to work picking up trash. Afterwards, using various excuses, everyone skirted out and left me alone with the Spanish teacher for hours.

      Around 2:00 PM, everyone showed back up to class. They had all probably emerged out of boredom and found, to their surprise, my private Spanish Hell still in session. Around 3:00 PM, we all caught a bus to Santo Domingo. Nothing of interest happened there.

  Saturday, March 29th, 2003
      Animal Production went to Talwaza today to see a Guatusa farm. Within the first few minutes, Erin Stockdill was bit by one of the owner's dogs for absolutely no reason. The dog sank its mouth to the full extent on her leg, but was instantly punted with extreme force by our Ecuadorian driver. I would not be surprised if the dog is substantially injured.

      Then we all slipped down the road to a cattle farm. The cows needed injections of a substance that gets rid of both internal and external parasites. The cows were crammed into a corral, looking much like a 40 car pile up on the Autobahn, and pushed and crapped on each other and bucked. One got a horn ripped off. We all gave injections with a short but very fat needle. The cows were uncooperative. Then we were shown how to rope and pull down a cow campo style.

      Moving right along, we slipped further still down the highway to San Miguel to castrate all of Micah's piglets. I got myself into the mix there. There's no trick to it. Find 'em, cut 'em, pop 'em out, pull on 'em until the cords snap. And that concluded our final stop on the Tour de Torment, and since it was only 1:00 PM, I headed into Santo Domingo to upload pictures on the internet for a few hours.

      I left around 5:00 PM. Back in San Miguel, I placed an hour long call to the US. Hi Jeanne. The gringo scene is non-existent tonight. Grace went with Talwaza Jason to the beach and Micah is either asleep or out of town.

  Sunday, March 30th, 2003
      The moment I opened my bedroom door this morning, I knew there was a gang of drunks loitering in front of the store. I could smell them. I made a feeder for my chickens and when I went to install it, passed a drunk guy stumbling through the house, much to the amusement of EcuaMom. Then I painstakingly used a well-worn broom to sweep the accumulation of dead bugs and grit of unknown origin off my bedroom carpet. While I was doing this, I heard some of the borrachos out front begin weeping cartoonically. They had been drinking since the night before and by this time had gone completely senseless. When I headed out to the bus stop at 9:30 AM, I saw 2 incoherent drunks sitting on the bench in front of the tienda weeping. A third drunk was unconscious on the cement, and a fourth drunk slowly tipped over on him as I waited for the bus.

      When the bus came, it was as packed as it physically could have been. The aisle was jammed with people from front to back and a dense wad of insane men hung out the open door. Every time the bus stopped, the plug of men jumped out, sometimes I as well, and eventually the doorway would produce a frazzled fat woman who would toddle down the steps. Then the Ayudante (money collector), would yell “GO” and we would all dive for the open door as the bus began rolling forward again. No one was especially put out by the conditions of the bus. On the contrary, those of us in the heat of battle were fairly amused and the rest of the bus was either tolerant or amused to a lesser degree by the fiasco taking place.

      In Santo Domingo, I shuffled into an internet place at 10:30 AM and shuffled back out at 6:00 PM. It only took the computer geek at the counter 45 seconds and 17 glances at the clock to figure out that that was 7.5 hours and thus 7.5 dollars. The bus ride home took more than an hour. When I climbed in around 6:15, a number of bus company workers were howling with laughter in the front of the bus and debating something completely stupid. I watched their unflagging amusement and was at long last convinced that for all their money, Americans are not happier people. The average Ecuadorian is short on brains and long on free time. They spend that free time loafing together and endlessly satisfying their simple minds with cretinous musings. It doesn't matter that their houses may be falling down around them because no one notices. Sure, our money buys us comfort, but with that comfort comes heightened sensitivity to discomfort. When averaged over a lifetime, I don't believe the comfort of money to be an advantage. We pay a high price to be rich.

      When I got home, I was starving. A knot of peevishness jammed in my chest as EquaMom placed a bowl of soup in front of me. Soup in Ecuador is composed of bland liquid and chunks of stuff too big to be popped into the mouth in one bite. There is nothing filling about liquid. If there's anything worse than a nearly tasteless liquid that requires 3000 spoonfuls to make disappear, it is a nearly tasteless liquid splashing on to your shirt because the big chunk you just tried to nip off your spoon went south. When I fished a big glob of fat from the murky depths of my soup bowl, I dumped the whole thing in the sink and ate rice. Micah came over while I was eating and told me his house would be empty for the next 2 hours. We hurried over and broke out cokes and put our feet up and listened to music. Our pleasure was immense. For a spell all too brief, we were neither strangers nor diplomats. The smoke billowed from our empty heads and the world outside slowly came to resemble the world inside, and we were home.

WEEK 5       WEEK 7

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