Monday, March 31st, 2003
      Two Spanish testers came today to verify that our Spanish has been improving since our first test back in the convent. Proof that their judicious verdicts are nothing but horse waste arose in that I scored the same as Micah, whose Spanish stomps mine any day of the week, and Grace scored below me even though her Spanish is as good and arguably better than mine.

      While I was elsewhere testing, our odd and regularly infuriating Spanish teacher made Grace storm out of class, just as I had a few days earlier. Grace brashly returned a while later and asked me if I wanted to ditch the class I was sitting in to go to Santo Domingo. The teacher paused class while we abruptly walked out.

      We bussed into Santo Domingo and went straight to a restaurant Grace favors. Later, we bought a bunch of snacks at a store because I had skipped lunch due to the fact that I had found the Spanish teacher, 2 language testers and their driver sitting at my table when I came home to eat. I spotted a new tablecloth and knew fancy food was on the way. I pondered the conversations that might take place over lunch, and then turned on my heel and left the house hungry, vowing never to be caught without back up snacks again.

      When we stepped off the bus in San Miguel, half the town was without power. I popped into my house to dine by candlelight and then went to Micah's to help him draw pictures for a presentation he was working on. Grace, Jason and half the kids in town were there and I ended up doing nothing but laying flat on my back on the pool table.

  Tuesday, April 1st, 2003
      When I woke up, the house was without water, electricity and phone. However, it was not without the 2 best grilled cheeses I have ever eaten for breakfast. In Spanish class, Grace was again livid with the Spanish teacher, but was this time joined by Micah and about 33% of Jason. We sort of demanded that class terminate early. The prematurely dispatched teacher then wound up at my table for lunch. Micah stopped by and we attempted to prod her flight path out of aggravation airspace with silken surface-to-air suggestions. Only time will tell if we made the situation better or worse. Grace and Micah went into Santo Domingo. Jason and I dropped in on 2 small-time chicken farms with 200 and 500 chickens respectively. Their broiler chickens were the same age as mine but double the size. The owner of the second chicken farm came to take a look at my chickens. He said they were, in fact, broilers, but I had purchased them from the reject bin. Then he popped a pinch of my chicken feed into his mouth and declared it a quality feed. He gave me a big bag of rice hulls to use for bedding and told me that if I ever had questions about anything at all pertaining to animals, that I should feel free to stop over and by all means bring a note pad and pen to immortalize all his pearls of wisdom. The he ascended to heaven and left me to bond with my 3 week old broilers of dubious pedigree.

      I tired of my day long stankfest and used the water in the back of my toilet to bathe. Through my window, I heard the town meeting about a proposed communal guinea pig raising project turning passionate. Edgy eruptions of applause were accompanied by unintelligible outbursts. It sounded like the British parliament had convened at the cockfight.

  Wednesday, April 2nd, 2003
      No water in the house again. Bucket bath. Animal Production drove an hour away to Quevedo to see a guinea pig, rabbit and goat farm. Afterward, I was too tired to care that my chickens were almost out of food, so I went home instead of going to Santo Domingo to get more.

  Thursday, April 3rd, 2003
      Calazacon. By all accounts, the Peace Corps wasted our entire day with filler activities and crap. After lunch, they kind of gave us the logistics for our site visits coming up next Monday. Animal Production was told their “mobile library” was here from Quito. It was 2 cardboard boxes of very old books sitting on the floor.

      Afterward, Grace, Sara, Talwaza Jason and I went into Santo Domingo to internet for an hour. Then Sara and I broke away to buy 3 more baby chicks and feed. Our intention had been to catch Grace and Jason on the bus home, but we missed them by mere minutes and ended up taking the bus from hell, whose unexplained dinkin' around made the bus ride home take 1.5 hours.

      Back in San Miguel, Micah came by to cook up some groceries he had purchased and then Grace came by to discuss the details of our forbidden beach excursion to take place tomorrow. PCTs are not allowed to spend the night outside their sites, but a big meeting has all the Peace Corps brass converging on Quito, so we figure it wont be possible to catch us AWOL. When we told EcuaMom about our plans and our dilemma’, she told us to go without hesitation and said she’d cover for us.

  Friday, April 4th, 2003
      From the shower, I heard the deep buzzing of a large flying insect entering my room. I saw it briefly as it passed through the piece of ceiling visible from my shower. It raced around and banged itself against the wood rafters severally. Then, without warning, it shot downward into my shower stall like a meteor, sending my thoroughly sudsed frame airborne out of the shower. I turned the shower head on it and danced in place for a moment before noticing an empty steel can with which I could neutralize the invader.

      Because the Peace Corps brass is heading to Quito today, Spanish class ended at 11:30am. The teacher caught a bus out of San Miguel and I went home to pack. A long while later, I emerged from my room, much to the surprise of EcuaMom and her daughter-in-law. They hadn't realized I was around and they immediately wanted to feed me lunch. I said that would be fine, but when they plunked a big bowl of soup down on the table, I made up an excuse about needing to check first with Grace to see if we were going to eat in town. I came back and told her we were, in fact, eating in town, even though there were no such plans.

      Soon after I bailed out of lunch, Jason showed up and we bussed into Santo Domingo. We caught a 1 dollar taxi to the bus terminal and from there bussed the 2.5 hours to the coastal town of Pederanales. In Pederanales we checked into a 5 dollar per person per night hotel which was far nicer a place than I would’ve thought 5 dollars could buy. Nothing of interest happened for the rest of the night, unless you think food is ever an exciting topic of conversation.

  Saturday, April 5th, 2003
      We caught a breakfast by the ocean and found the waves were quite an impressive size, so we rented a few boogie boards and had a go of it. It was love at first splash. My board and I continued boogying long after Jason and Grace retired to dry ground. I have no idea how long I amused myself gliding among the breakers, but I know I would have gone all day, were it not for the large fin I spotted submerging 40 feet away from me. I backed up to knee deep water and waited to see a seal or dolphin or something coming up for air. Nothing ever popped up, and sine I couldn’t verify that it hadn’t been a shark fin, I got out of the water altogether. I intended it to be only a temporary stint on land, but we ended up going to lunch and making it permanent.

      Around 2:30 pm, we bussed back to Santo Domingo. We ran into EcuaMom's kids and rode in their pickup truck all the way to my front door. EcuaMom was not at home. The EcuaKids had been on their way to feed EcuaDad and so they added me to the menu as well. We were fed giant empanadas.

      San Miguel was partying down. There had evidently been a cockfight earlier and now 2 large separate parties were in progress -one next door and one in the school. The crowd in front of the tienda was unusually large and boisterous (tip: if you do not learn a little profanity and/or the whorehouse lexicon, you will never know what the crowd of men in front of the tienda is talking about).

      Little Jaime from next door came over because when he had told me a few days earlier that the woman that had given birth to him and his 2 siblings was coming for a visit, I had told him I wanted to meet her. She was now here. Jaime's house was packed with partygoers. It was mayhem. A moment after I met his mom, she was absorbed back into the multitude. Jaime's grandma extended me an invitation to the party across the street, which had now grown incredibly festive. I accepted just to have an excuse to leave.

      Grace and I were washed out of the house in a torrent of excited kids but detoured sharply into my house without explanation. Grace soon left and I crashed out. A few hours later, I awoke when a large cockroach walked across my face. We had a vicious fight on my bed, but the perpetrator escaped unharmed. He was hiding out beneath my bed where I could neither kill him nor consider him safely out of the picture. I stood in the center of my room furious.

      The parties in front of my house, on the side of my house and across the street from my house were by far the most boisterous things I had yet encountered in San Miguel. Alas, I was determined to acquire sleep in spite of the chaos. I placed my dome among the rank pillows, and Ecuador disappeared.

  Sunday, April 6th, 2003
      I woke up when I heard EcuaMom arriving home and tearing into someone out in front of the house. I don't know who or why, but I imagine it had something to do with the widespread partying that ensued last night which probably involved her husband. I packed a suitcase of non-essentials to take and leave at my site during my upcoming visit, checked on my chickens, and then took off to Santo Domingo with Grace.

      Grace and I encountered Talwaza Jason and 2 others in town. We all cabbed to a pizza place where I went on a fairly alarming eating binge. Then Jason Grace and I bussed to Talwaza, where we ran all over green places and swatted bugs and planted Jason's vegetable plantlets in his garden. Later, back in San Miguel, I gave myself a haircut and refused EcuaMom's big hunk o' pig for dinner because it was a big hunk o' pig, and also I was still full from lunch.

WEEK 6       WEEK 8

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