Absinthe

This dim corner is my Absinthe Page.

Tasting the spirits at The Old Absinthe House.

It is a common misconception among Americans that Absinthe is illegal in The United States. It's actually not that simple. Absinthe was, in a way, banned in 1915 during an age when some people's idea of "morality" included doomed ideals such as prohibition, segregation and utopian societies.

Currently, the manufacture or sale of alcoholic beverages in the United States is regulated by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives. Because absinthe is a distilled spirit, it falls under this category just like Whisky, Vodka or Gin. So as long as you aren't distilling it in your basement, distributing it to minors or otherwise selling it without a license, it appears the ATFE frankly doesn't give a damn.

The Drug Enforcement Agency does not consider Absinthe to be on any schedule of controlled substances. The only agency that really seems to attempt any kind of enforcement effort on consumers is The U.S. Customs Department. They seem to focus their efforts more on preventing absinthe from being brought into the country by incoming travellers. Recent changes to the national security program have invented new agencies like the Department of Homeland Security, which claim to investigate imported contraband items, such as absinthe, a little more closely.

The Food and Drug Administration, however, had forbidden the sale or manufacture of absinthes containing wormwood in the United States due to the botanical monoterpene "thujone," which is found in wormwood and several other plants and was mistakenly blamed for absinthe's reputed hallucinogenic effects. In fact, all of the emphasis on thujone content is a lot of hype. Chemical analysis on samples of vintage pre-ban absinthes has revealed very low levels of thujone, between 1 and 5 mg/L. Interestingly, some brands of absinthe have recently been cleared for legal import and distribution within the US due to a technicality with the testing method.

So, add all that up, and it seems that Absinthe is only illegal to manufacture, sell or distribute in this country, but even that is in a state of transition right now. Some brands of "real" absinthe are already available in stores in the US. That isn't to say that a misinformed law-enforcement officer wouldn't confiscate your stash given the opportunity though.

Incidentally, all those "do-it-yourself-absinthe-kits" for sale on E-bay... forget about them. Anyone with an ounce of grey matter aught to be able to tell that soaking some weeds in grain alcohol won't result in any kind of quality beverage. It may, however, very likely result in an efficient poison.

Is Absinthe worth the extra effort? If you're looking for some kind of cosmic superbuzz or instant Van Gogh-like creativity, you will be sorely dissapointed. If you want to become like Van Gogh or Baudelaire, go contract syphilis and let it go untreated for a few years, then perhaps you will find the mania that you are looking for.

True appreciation of absinthe has very little to do with its psychological effects.

I have tasted absinthes from 7 countries. I've had Swiss, French, Canadian, Czech, Spanish and even Polish absinthe. In all, I've sampled over 20 various styles and brands, including 1914 vintage, pre-ban absinthe. Below, I have compiled some tasting notes on a few of my favorites:

	La Fee Absinthe Parisienne Country of Origin: France Notes:68% Alcohol, Distilled absinthe. On opening the bottle, the bouquet is strong. It has a fruity, oakey smell. The color is a vivid, devilish green. Louche effect is pronounced and yields a thick opalescence. The flavor is quite different from Pernod or Absente. It has a black-licorice (anise) flavor to be certain, but not as prominently as some other brands. The wormwood flavor takes on a whole new character after distillation. It isn't hardly at all bitter, but there is a deep woody flavor. It reminds me somewhat of chocolate, but with none of it's sweetness. There are secondary flavors of lemon and mint. Sometimes LaFee is called an "oil mix" absinthe, that is, a blend of essential oils extracted from the flavoring herbs. In fact, this is incorrect, LaFee is distilled from a maceration of herbs according to traditional techniques. LaFee was the first "real" absinthe I tasted and as a result, is a standard by which I judge other modern absinthes. It is also the absinthe I use in my Absinthe Cookie Recipe, which used to be found on LaFee's website, but has apparently been deleted in it's latest update. If you're interested in the recipe - E-mail me. LaFee markets several styles of absinthe, "Francais" & "Parisian" (French style), "Bohemian" (Czech Style) and "Suisse" (a LaBleue). According to some sources, LaFee seems to be a favorite among modern absintheurs such as Johnny Depp and Marylin Manson.
	La Fee Absinthe XS Francaise Country of Origin: France Notes:68% Alcohol, Distilled absinthe. Wow... I always liked LaFee, but have long considered them a "commercial" absinthe, XS Francaise has assumed a place at the top of my favorites list though. The color is rather pale and the louch effect isn't very spectacular, but flavor! This is a great absinthe, full bodied and very potent. Definately give this stuff a try!
	Mythe Absinthe Traditional (Elixir aux Plantes D' Absinthe) Country of Origin: France Notes:69% Alcohol, Process Unknown. One of the first Absinthes to be approved for sale on the American market. I located a bottle of this at the Cork and Bottle, just across the river from Cincinnati, Ohio (along with some other brands of note). This absinthe is made at the Elie Arnaud Denoix Distillery. The coloring is an organic green, louch is light to average. This absinthe tastes a little more bitter than the other French brands I've tried, mostly the after-taste. The overall flavor is not heavily anise, there is a hint of chartreuse flavor...herbal, but difficult to identify. There is also a particular flavor in the alcohol that stands out. In my opinion, this was a product rushed to satisfy the newly legalized American market who, for the most part, don't know inferior absinthes from the good stuff.
	1797 Country of Origin: France Notes:75% Alcohol, Distilled Absinthe. According to the Liqueurs de France website, an extremely limited production of one of the first known absinthe recipes. It was written down for posterity in 1797 and attributed to Abram-Louis Perrenoud, Henri-Louis Pernod's father. Translated from old French and put into production by two absinthe historians using ancient measurements and colouring techniques, along with only local Pontarlier absinthe plants, it shows another side to absinthe that has been modified so many times during the 19th century. Its flavor is supposed to be more herbaceous and slightly medicinal, tonic-like, as it was originally intended. I found the flavor to be consistent with this. The wormwood flavor was quite strong with a touch of bitterness. Mint and fennel were also there, lingering just under the surface. Despite the powerful alcohol content, this absinthe was smooth to drink after proper dilution. The color is a potent, almost fluorescent yellow green. Louche is very light.
	Emile Pernot L'Artisanale Country of Origin: France Notes:72% Alcohol, Distilled Pontarlier Style Absinthe. Another very limited production of the first 'Pontarlier style' absinthe actually made in Pontarlier since its ban in 1915. This batch was limited to 184 50cL bottles, each bottle's label is hand-marked with its place in line. I was fortunate enough to obtain bottle 105/184. The bottle came with a red wax seal on the cap, which was a metal twist-off as opposed to a cork. The aroma was heavily fennel. Coloring is a natural faint olive-green. Upon addition of water, louche starts slowly and thickens to a moderate cloudiness. The flavor is almost creamy, with very heavy wormwood and fennel overtones. Very unique!
	Kubler 53 Country of Origin: Switzerland Notes:53% Alcohol, Distilled La Blanche Absinthe. After being banned for over 90 years, Absinthe was recently re-legalized in Switzerland. Kubler absinthe is distilled in the Val-de-Travers region. Kubler comes in a 100 cL amber-green bottle. The absinthe itself is crystal clear. The aroma of Kubler is superb, very herbal with no overpowering anise aroma. It louches to a cloudy opalescent white. The flavor of this absinthe is incredible, very harmonized. It is difficult to separate the various flavors of fennel, lemon, mint and wormwood because they are balanced so well. The alcohol seems to be there only by coincidence. I usually don't care for absinthe with lower alcohol contents (less than 68%) but at 106-proof, Kubler is smooth and full-bodied with a highly pronounced herbal character. Really incredible stuff!
	Jade Absinthe Edouard 72 Country of Origin: France Notes:72% Alcohol Content, Distilled Absinthe. Wow... This product captures the spirit of absinthe, beginning with the label. The bottle is closed with a cork and hard, green, wax seal. It has a sweet, almost fruity/chocolatey aroma. The color is a perfect green. Louche effect is very thick. Addition of water releases an herbal bouquet with a lot of fennel and wormwood. Jade takes modern absinthe to the next level, it has a flavor designed for the connoisseur. The primary flavor is balanced between fennel and anise. Alcohol character is quite smooth and the secondary flavors are well harmonized. This is also one of my favorites.
	Jade Absinthe Nouvelle-Orleans 68 Country of Origin: France Notes:68% Alcohol Content, Distilled Absinthe. I haven't made up my mind on this stuff yet. This absinthe is purported to be a replica of the absinthe served in New Orleans in pre-prohibition times. It comes in a dark glass bottle with a really nice classical style label and wax seal. At first taste, there's a really strange..."mustard" tang, possibly Cumin? that I wasn't expecting. Supposedly, this is a prominent flavor in pre-1915 New Orleans Absinthes though. Having never tasted "pre-ban" New Orleans Style absinthe, I can't say one way or the other. I will say that this stuff is quite potent. It's got a dark anise flavor lingering in the background with a hint of burnt chocolate. The coloring is light green and louches thickly to a cloudy greenish-yellow.
	Jade Absinthe PF 1901 Country of Origin: France Notes:68% Alcohol Content, Distilled Absinthe. According to the manufacturer, PF 1901 is a tribute to what is the best known and most widely sampled pre-ban absinthe: Pernod Fils. PF 1901 takes its name from the year in which the original Pernod Fils distillery in Pontarlier was struck by lightning (!) and caught fire. When the distillery was rebuilt and repaired, the out-dated alembics were replaced by the most modern equipment of the time. The old alembics were either destroyed by the fire and sold for scrap or sold off to smaller distilleries. The Combier Distillery purchased two of the 1100 liter stills and installed them along with the 8 smaller stills which had been a part of the distillery since 1894. The importance of this history, and especially the authenticity of these two circa 1870's alembics, was not overlooked when Jade Absinthe Originator Ted Breaux chose the Combier Distillery in which to make Jade vintage absinthe clones. My first impression of this absinthe is that it's very good, but it's not quite Pre-ban Pernod Fils. Based on my comparison with Jade and the sample of Pre-ban that I have tasted, I think much of the difference has to do with the age of the product. Let a bottle of Jade sit undisturbed in a basement for almost 100 years and we'll just see how it compares then. It isn't often that I am able to relax enough that one glass of properly diluted absinthe can have a profound effect on me, but this stuff hit me hard. One of the peculiarities of Jade absinthes is the cork used to seal the bottle, which I always seem to break on removing and have to replace. On opening the bottle, I was struck with the smell - very strong fennel in my opinion. This is a very pretty absinthe, with the color in the glass being an intriguing goldish green. On dilution, the louche is perfect, as always with Jade absinthes. The flavor was creamy, with a hint of caramel and just a touch of the Nouvelle-Orleans tang. You will want to dilute this absinthe well, as the alcohol has a little natural bite, but not unpleasantly so. There is a lingering black licorice aftertaste. This absinthe is not bitter at all. I'm sure wormwood is in there, but it's harmonized so well with the other flavors that it is quite hidden in the flavor. Jade Absinthes are all top shelf, you can't go wrong with any of them. This one is my second favorite, with Jade Absinthe Edouard being first in line, by a very narrow margin.
	Lucid Absinthe Country of Origin: France Notes:Unknown strength, unknown process. Lucid is a Ted Breaux (Jade Absinthe) product, tailored for the US market. I had high hopes for it, but my first taste was a dissapointment. A bit heavy on the fennel side, the flavor is almost earthy. I've only had one glass so far though, so I really can't give my full opinion in it yet. My suggestion: give it a try for yourself.
	Apsinthion Deluxe Country of Origin: Poland Notes:55% Alcohol Content, process unknown. I was able to discover that this absinthe recieved the best in class gold medal at the 2005 International Wine and Spirits Competition. I recieved some as a gift from my girlfriend upon her return from a business trip to The Netherlands. She found it in a shop in Coevorden. It came in a gift set with an etched glass and a rather heavy and wide absinthe spoon. Coloring is thin green, possibly artificial, but I don't know for sure. It louches heavily with water. The scent is citrus. Flavor is heavily anise, and it is more full-bodied and substantial than one would anticipate from its color. There isn't much bitterness, but the alcohol character is a little harsh. Still, a surprisingly tasty absinthe all things considered.
	Absinthe Fougerolles Verte 72 Country of Origin: France Notes:72% Alcohol Content, Distilled Absinthe. Pretty good. It is similar to Un Emile, though not so robust. The flavor is lightly anise, with stronger herbal complimentary flavors. Color is amber-yellow and louches nicely. Not truly top-shelf, but not at all bad.
	Absinthe Blanche de Fougerolles 74 Country of Origin: France Notes:74% Alcohol Content, La Blanche Distilled Absinthe. Similar to Fougerolles Verte, but of course, clear. It is patterned after the Swiss La Bleue absinthes, that do not undergo a coloration step, but are diluted and bottled right out of the still. The extra alcohol is noticeable, giving this absinthe a little pleasant "bite." Louches to a remarkable frosty white. This is the first "white" absinthe I ever tried, but I have to say I really like it. Not as balanced as Kubler, but a good absinthe nonetheless.
	Absinthe Authentique Country of Origin: Canada Notes:Artisanal Distilled Absinthe. This type of absinthe is sometimes referred to as "HG" or Hausgemacht (german: house-made). This variety is distilled in 6-liter batches and pre-ordered 3-months in advance. I have tried 2 batches of this particular absinthe, Batch #22 "Antiqua" and Batch #26 "Artemisia Voluptas." In both, the flavor is quite minty and the alcohol is very up-front. #26 has a stronger anise or fennel flavor, with #22 being more minty. Coloring is greenish-yellow, louching to milky yellow. Absinthe Authentique is an interesting absinthe, and it seems to improve with every batch.
	Pernod Fils 1914 vintage Country of Origin: France Notes:Vintage Distilled Absinthe. The "Pernod 1914" Cache consisted of 76 bottles of privately bottled Absinthe Pernod Fils, originating from glass demi-johns removed from the Pernod Fils distillery one week before the prohibition of absinthe came into effect in August 1914. The cache originates from the cellar of a descendant of a once substantial liquor distributor, which operated from 1890 to around 1950. The elderly owner inherited the bottles from his father, who purchased several glass demi-johns of absinthe from Pernod Fils in the week immediately prior to the ban on absinthe being enacted in August 1914. The contents of these demijohns (probably around 20-30 litres each) were then bottled for the private consumption of the family. There were reportedly originally around 300 bottles, and they were drunk up to the beginning of the Second World War, after which a cache of the remaining intact bottles - from which these 76 originated - were left untouched and essentially forgotten until the fall of 2006. I gladly paid a pretty penny for this rare opportunity to sample a pre-ban absinthe of this quality. Through 93 years of patient waiting, this absinthe has mellowed, like autumn leaves, to an amber coloration. It is still very clear and free of any sediment. I have thus far allowed myself only a few tastes of this, diluted with spring-water according to the traditional ritual to my liking - which is typically a 3 or 4 to 1 ratio of water to absinthe based on the brand and alcohol strength. Testing on these bottles had revealed a strength of 65% to 66% alcohol which is slightly weaker than many of the modern brands. Diluting this absinthe with spring water resulted in an amber louche. The bouquet was very subtle; predominantly anise, but also floral with hints of tobacco and spice. I diluted a 10mL sample with a slow and patient drip, until I had a total volume of 40mL. This provided me with a few sips to analyze and relish. Tasting notes: The alcohol character was very mellow. The components of this absinthe, being united so harmoniously by the original craftsman and allowed to mingle for nearly a century transcend mere terms such as "balance." No one particular character stood out more so than the others, but everything that I have ever considered to be present in a good absinthe was there. One flavor that I was able to discern is...I think...Hyssop. I know it was included in the old absinthe formulas, but you can almost never taste it.
	Un Emile Absinthe 68 Country of Origin: France Notes:68% Alcohol, Distilled Absinthe. One of the best I've tasted - a favorite. The flavor is somewhat reminiscent of La Fee, but with more complexity. There is a good Fennel/anise balance, along with mint, and a very mild, pleasant bitterness. It has a noticeable wormwood undertones. Color is very light greenish-yellow. Highly recommended.
	Logan Fils Absinthe Country of Origin: Czech Republic Notes:68% Alcohol, Distilled Absinthe. This absinthe has a deeper color than most and louches to a thick greenish-yellow. The flavor reminds me somewhat of the Canadian hand-made absinthes I've tasted, though less balanced. This absinthe has recieved a lot of bad reviews due to some earlier batches that had avery earthy flavor. It is also quite expensive as absinthe's go. My guess is that the herbs used were not harvested at the right time or perhaps contained too many stems and roots. Problems with the distillation maybe? Who knows. This seems to have been corrected in later batches. The later batches are better balanced with less "earthy" flavor. There is a strong herbal undertone in this absinthe similar to Chartreuse, in addition, the typical flavors of mint, licorice and lemon are all there. Logan Fils isn't terribly bitter. The alcohol character is quite warm. Interestingly enough, on my last trip to The Old Absinthe House in New Orleans, I noticed a few bottles of this hiding among the other bottles behind the bar in the restaurant (which by the way, is excellent.) It was explained to me that they were "private stock" reserved for the owner when he happens to be there.
	Sebor Absinthe Country of Origin: Czech Republic Notes:55% Alcohol, macerated herb decoction. Flavor is a darker anise flavor with definite bitterness from the wormwood. Natural coloring is clear, dark green. Flavor is like pernod or herbsaint only less sweet and more bitter. This is another absinthe that you can find hiding behind the bar in The Old Absinthe House. It has a very recognizeable bottle and label, so when I saw it from across the room, I was kind of shocked.
	Absente Country of Origin: France Notes:68% Alcohol, non-wormwood macerated herb decoction. Absente has a typical pastis flavor with a high alcohol content and a distinct southernwood (artemisia abrotanum) flavor. Coloring is a rather thin yellowish/green. Louches only with sugar. If you order an "absinthe drip" or "absinthe frappe" at the Old Absinthe House on Bourbon and Bienville in New Orleans' French Quarter, this is what you'll get served.
	Herbsaint Country of Origin: United States Notes:New Orleans native, non-wormwood absinthe substitute. Tastes like Pernod fils. Very prominent black-licorice/anise flavor, sweet, without secondary flavors. Coloring is yellow. Louche is nothing spectacular.